A Family Adventure to Southern asia: part 1, sri lanka
By Danielle Ward, Marketing Manager | September 2025
As seasoned travellers before children, our excitement for this long-awaited trip couldn’t have been higher. We’ve never been ones for a simple fly-and-flop. Instead, we’ve chosen multi-stop adventures, exploring France, Switzerland, Spain and Italy in recent years with our two boys in tow. Perhaps our most ambitious journey was a California road trip when our youngest was just six months old!
This year, our boys had just one request: a little relaxation. We found the perfect balance – 11 days of adventure in Sri Lanka, followed by four nights of unwinding in the Maldives. What follows is the first section of our journey, brimming with wildlife, cuisine, culture and the genuine warmth of Sri Lankan hospitality.
Day 1 – Arrival in Sri Lanka
Following our overnight flight, we arrived in sunny Colombo and were greeted by Hirantha, our wonderfully relaxed chauffeur guide for the trip. The four-hour transfer to our first stop, Sigiriya, in the heart of the Cultural Triangle, was a journey in itself. The view from the window was an explosion of colour and energy, while the hectic roads left us glad we weren’t behind the wheel!
At Roo Mansala, our boutique retreat, we were welcomed with refreshing cool cloths and iced lime tea before settling into our suite. The set-up of a king bed below, twin beds on the mezzanine, two decks with views of Sigiriya and Pidurangala Rocks, plus a private plunge pool was perfect. Dinner was served in the open-sided restaurant overlooking the pool with palm squirrels trilling in the background.
Overnight: Roo Mansala
Day 2 – Sigiriya & Village Tour
We woke early to climb Sigiriya Rock Fortress, also known as Lion Rock, before the heat and crowds. It’s clear why King Kasyapa chose to fortify this 180-metre monolith in the 5th century, the scale is extraordinary. The boys grumbled at the thought of 1,200 steps,but awe soon replaced complaints for all of us. Faded frescoes of some of the King’s five hundred concubines lined a section of the rock face, and from the summit we were rewarded with sweeping 360-degree views and cheeky Toque Macaques.
Back at ground level, we bumped along red-dust roads to Habarana village, narrowly avoiding the recently harvested rice that had been laid out on the road to dry! We exchanged the air-conditioned van for a far more curious set of wheels, think modified tractor with extra seating. We all had a go at driving, hitting a top speed of 3mph! In the village, we gathered vegetables from a local family’s kitchen garden, then cooked a feast including okra curry and coconut sambal using traditional methods, such as a two-stone grinder and a walang (curry pot) over a wood fire.
Overnight: Roo Mansala
Day 3 – Polonnaruwa & Safari
Today we explored Polonnaruwa by bicycle, Sri Lanka’s medieval capital from 993 AD and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Spread across 300 acres, the ruins are astonishing with grand palaces, temples and stone statues that feel more like a film set than a 1,000-year-old city.
In the afternoon came a family first: safari. Within half an hour of bouncing along in the jeep in Minneriya National Park, we spotted a serpent eagle just a couple of metres from us. Moments later, we were surrounded by elephants, some grazing in family groups, others bathing in the lake. They came so close that one flicked our wing mirror with its trunk.
Overnight: Roo Mansala
Day 4 – Dambulla
Before leaving Roo Mansala, we joined the resident naturalist Vikram for a dawn wildlife walk and spotted an eight-foot mugger crocodile and a lonesome elephant. All before breakfast!
On the way south we stopped at the Dambulla Cave Temples, the country’s oldest and best-preserved. Having recently studied Buddhism, our eldest was fascinated by the intricate frescoes and ancient statues. Once a refuge for monks and later King Valagamba, the caves became richly decorated temples after he reclaimed the throne in 89 BC.
From there, we climbed higher into the hills, arriving at Ellerton Bungalows, 800 metres above sea level. Once the home of a tea estate manager, the house feels like stepping back in time, with painted floors, antique furniture and a timeless sense of calm. Owner Luca has crafted a unique communal feel and extends the warmest of greetings to his guests. Half-board dining was exquisite, though the afternoon tea stole the show, especially the banana and chocolate cake.
Overnight: Ellerton Bungalows
Day 5 – Kandy
We set out for a day in Kandy beginning at the Royal Botanical Gardens, 147 acres of towering bamboo, palms that are home to giant flying foxes and an orchid house in full bloom. The scale of some of the plants was staggering – we’ve never seen bamboo plants like it.
After circling Kandy Lake in the van, we headed on foot for the municipal market. While I got excited over the handwoven textiles and considered how much space we had in our bags, the boys explored unrecognisable fruit and vegetables of all shapes and sizes. Back at Ellerton, one of the gardeners led us to a natural rock slide in the grounds. That evening, before dinner, we joined other guests around the firepit, listening to a live flute performance as the sparks danced in the night sky and the boys toasted marshmallows.
Overnight: Ellerton Bungalows
Day 6 – The Pekoe Trail
Our family loves walking, so we were intrigued to discover the Pekoe Trail, a 300-kilometre route winding through Sri Lanka’s Central Highlands. Though my husband Marcus initially toyed with making it a full walking holiday (to the boys’ horror), we settled on tackling stage one: eight manageable miles from Hanthana to Galaha.
Armed with a delicious packed lunch from Ellerton and joined by our naturalist guide, Niro, we set off. Along the way, we passed women plucking tea leaves, who happily let us try our hand, showing us great patience! The landscape was cinematic – quite literally, as parts of Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom were filmed here in 1985.
Overnight: Ellerton Bungalows
Day 7 – Train from Nanu Oya to Haputale
When we first considered Sri Lanka we knew we wanted to include a train ride brimming with local life. Rather than attempt the full six-hour Kandy–Ella route, we opted for the shorter Nanu Oya to Haputale stretch, just 1 hour 45 minutes. We clickety-clacked through the highland scenery, accompanied by the rhythmic drumming and singing of our fellow passengers. We watched farmers tend their land before passing through Sri Lanka’s highest train station, Pattipola, at 1,891 metres.
Our destination was the secluded nine-room retreat Living Heritage Koslanda. From the infinity pool, views swept endlessly across the hills which we spent hours simply soaking in. Our suite was beautiful: a private courtyard, plunge pool and interiors carefully styled with handpicked fabrics and rich wooden furnishings.
Overnight: Living Heritage Koslanda
Day 8 – Diyaluma Falls
A short tuk-tuk ride brought us to Diyaluma Falls, Sri Lanka’s second-highest waterfall at 220 metres. With a local guide we hiked up to a series of natural infinity pools smoothly carved into the rockface. There was no way we were going to resist a refreshing dip! In the upper pool, swarms of garra rufa fish nibbled our feet in an impromptu pedicure.
Back at Koslanda, we had the pool area to ourselves while monkeys played in the trees around us, before indulging in Ayurvedic treatments. Losanta’s Padabhyanga (foot massage), with warm oils and the scent of incense, lulled us into deep calm. A yoga pavilion with panoramic views is soon to open here; we couldn’t imagine a more perfect wellness retreat.
Before dinner, we loved browsing the expertly curated boutique shop, filled with local handicrafts, as well as herbs and spices from the estate.
Overnight: Living Heritage Koslanda
Day 9 – Safari at Yala National Park
From the hills we descended south to Yala National Park, famous for its leopard sightings. August is a promising month, with leopards often roaming the boulders, rather than hiding away in caves. Elephants grazed nearby, water buffalo wallowed, mugger crocodiles sunned themselves and grey langur monkeys leapt between branches. Deer, wild boar and an abundance of birdlife kept us busy throughout the three hours. We ended the day determined to try and spot a leopard tomorrow. Back at the hotel the impressive 75m long pool was a welcome respite.
Overnight: Jetwing Yala
Day 10 – Safari & Colombo
No problem getting the boys out of bed this morning, despite the 5.30am meet! As the gates opened and the sun started to rise, a herd of around fifty deer crossed the road just ahead of us. Moments later, we glimpsed a sloth bear bounding through the undergrowth. Despite the good start, we didn’t get to see a leopard, but the thrill of the chase kept us awake and smiling.
When our vehicle suffered a puncture, the guide calmly changed the tyre while we braved a quick nature break in the bush, an adventure in itself!
That afternoon we travelled on to Colombo. We drove to the hotel through chaotic streets, weaving tuk-tuks and people busily going about their day. Time for a change of pace…
Overnight: Jetwing Colombo Seven
Day 11 – Colombo
From our base at centrally located Jetwing Colombo Seven, we set out on foot for a full day in the city. Eight miles later, we’d crammed in a lot. We began in leafy Viharamahadevi Park, moved on to the Natural History Museum, then explored the sacred Gangaramaya Temple complex. Nearby, The Grind Coffeehouse proved a delicious lunch stop.
Next came Pettah Market, a maze of stalls selling everything imaginable. Later, we joined locals at Galle Face Green, where families flew kites and played games in the early evening sun. Buying our own kite, we joined the fun, narrowly avoiding entanglement with more experienced flyers. Exhausted but happy, we flagged a tuk-tuk back, only to discover it was rush hour. The white-knuckle ride rivalled that of any theme park!
Overnight: Jetwing Colombo Seven
The trip turned out to be the perfect balance of adventure and downtime for our family, and having a dedicated chauffeur-guide meant we could fully relax and not worry about the little logistics, from finding lunch to locating the nearest bank. Instead, we chatted about all the fun experiences we were having and what was coming up. This was priceless. The accommodation choices truly enhanced our enjoyment, but what stays with us most is the kindness of the locals. Ayubowan Sri Lanka!
We followed this up with four nights on Makunudu island, The Maldives – blog coming soon…
A few tips:
- Bring your own binoculars, as not all guides carry them.
- Download the Pekoe Trail app, or better yet, walk with a local guide.
- Book first-class train tickets to secure an air-conditioned seat, but make time to wander through the train to soak up the atmosphere.
- Opt for at least two outings to increase chances of seeing leopards.
Please do get in touch if you’re considering your own Sri Lanka adventure. Alternatively, flick through Albee’s Travel detailed Sri Lanka lookbook if you want to explore the different areas to visit and accommodation options.
Photos courtesy of Bigeye Photography