RETURNING TO KENYA: LUXURY, WILDERNESS & SOUL
After eight visits to Kenya, you’d think I’d know what to expect. But that’s the magic of this country, it never offers the same experience twice. On my most recent research trip, I had the privilege of spending time at two exceptional properties that reflect the heart of luxury safari travel in entirely different ways: Mahali Mzuri in the Maasai Mara and Finch Hattons in Tsavo West.
One sits high above sweeping plains, the other deep within volcanic wilderness. Both offered moments of awe, calm, and connection that reminded me exactly why I do what I do.
Mahali Mzuri: Elevated Luxury in the Mara
A smooth 45-minute private charter brought me from Nairobi to Olare Olarok airstrip, where a cool mist hovered over the grasslands. Within 20 minutes, I was spotting zebra, warthogs, and antelope on the short drive to Mahali Mzuri, Sir Richard Branson’s celebrated tented camp in the Olare Motorogi Conservancy.
Perched on a ridge with views that seem to roll into eternity, Mahali Mzuri lives up to its Swahili name – “beautiful place.” From my deck, I watched elephants meander through the river, hippos submerged in the shallows, and herds of buffalo grazing against a backdrop of sunrise and birdsong.
The tents are designed to elevate every comfort: they are spacious, offer air conditioning, yoga mats, a generous mini bar, and even hot water bottles in the bed at night (and in the safari vehicles at dawn). Our guides, John and Jackson, were exceptional, skilled, kind and attuned to every creature and plant in the bush.
Days moved in a rhythm that felt both luxurious and grounding, with afternoon tea, a relaxing massage from Joan, or a visit to the nearby village. One evening brought a surprise bush dinner under the stars, lanterns flickering and the sound of lions calling in the distance. Wilson the Camp Manager, with his warmth, wisdom and entertaining stories around the camp-fire certainly made our stay.
Finch Hattons: Safari for the soul in Timeless Tsavo
From the Mara, I flew south for just over an hour and landed in a completely different world: Tsavo West. The air was warmer and the landscape more untamed. Just 15 minutes from the airstrip, I arrived at Finch Hattons Safari Camp, surrounded by volcanic hills, forests, and grassy plains.
This region is one of contrasts with dry lava fields beside wetlands, dust-red savannah against cloud forests, wildlife moving freely across one of Africa’s most biodiverse landscapes. As Dr. Dame Daphne Sheldrick once said “It’s quite difficult to portray the magic of Tsavo in just a few words… it really grips your soul. Tremendous contrast everywhere. Tsavo, in fact, has a greater biodiversity than any other place on earth. The more you know about nature, the more you can learn.”
At Finch Hattons, it really is a safari for the soul. The lodge has captured classic safari style-canvas walls, campaign furniture, deep copper bathtubs, without feeling the least bit dated. The service is incredibly genuine, and the attention to detail exquisite. In the mornings, I sat with my cup of tea on my private deck, watching kingfishers hover, herons glide, Vervet monkeys play and elephants plod across the far side of the lake.
Our game drives felt deeply personal, not just because of the sightings (giraffe, kudu, oryx, baboons, eland, hyrax), but because of the solitude. In three hours, we passed just two other vehicles. And then there was the morning I rose at 3:45am to climb into the Chyulu Hills Cloud Forest. By sunrise, we stood high above the landscape, mist swirling below us, light breaking across a prehistoric-looking horizon. It was magical, hard-earned, and completely unforgettable and was followed by a beautiful breakfast set up on the hill.
Later, we were treated to sundowners in the bush, perfectly timed with golden light, and even joined a playful round of the Maasai Olympics, spear throwing, firing bows and arrows, and lots of laughter. But what stayed with me most was the visit to a village supporting elderly widows, no performance, just quiet dignity, resilience, and genuine human connection.
The people at Finch Hattons are its soul. Felix, who’s been serving guests for 31 years; Matthew, our guide in full Masai dress; and William, the Camp Manager of three decades, they made the experience feel deeply rooted and incredibly personal.
Why Safari Still Feels Like Magic
What I love about safari is that you can completely switch off. You’re woken gently with coffee or tea. There’s no schedule to manage—your guide leads the way, drinks are poured for you, meals appear effortlessly, laundry is done, and massages await. Your senses come alive—every breeze, birdsong, and rustle in the grass feels amplified.
While a luxury safari is certainly an investment, so much is included: meals, high-quality wine and spirits, daily game drives with highly experienced and knowledgeable guides, and often even air transfers. The only extras tend to be spa treatments, tips, curio shopping, and the occasional add-on like hot air ballooning. For the most part, it’s a chance to return to a childlike state where the only thing you need to decide is which safari outfit to wear….
Please do get in touch if you’re considering a safari holiday, whether it’s your first experience, or you’re coming back for more! Alternatively, flick through my detailed Kenya lookbook if you want to explore the different areas to visit.
